” This eggs blini is definitely a Jennifer Lawrence because it is so rich and pretty “
After more than a year since it first opened, Devon Cafe at the Central Station end of Devonshire street in Surry Hills seems to be growing even more popular with the introduction of Devon By Night – its 9-course degustation dinner for $60 per head from Thursdays to Saturdays.
Mysaucepan and I are here today for lunch but who would have thought an all-day breakfast menu would include kaya toast – coconut jam, butter, light soy with 63 degree eggs and brioche toast?
Devon Cafe, Surry Hills
It’s a sign of the times.
Fine dining is doing it tough in Sydney and chefs from this upper echelon are migrating downstream to open casual eateries where food is punctuated with flashes of their former fine dining theatrics.
In Devon’s case, it’s Guillaume at Bennelong chef Jacqui Ekotors and Bistro Guillaume sous chef Zacharay Tan at the helm of the kitchen brigade.
The vibe in this dining room is very casual as we are seated in a large communal table with a least four different parties dining together. There is a mix of locals and students from nearby Sydney Uni and colleges.
A large bowl of fruits and graffiti along one side of the wall add to the Bohemian feel of inner Sydney city.
“Have you not heard about Devon’s eggs blini?” I asked Mysaucepan.
“Nope” she replies abruptly.
“It’s probably one of the most photographed and blogged about cafe dish at the moment” I tell her. “And I think it’s right up your alley too ‘coz it’s similar to a Benedict.”
“Oooh, I like that!!” she says, clasping her hands in glee.
“Tell you what, I’ll sacrifice my eggs blini for you ‘coz I know you’ll love this dish” I suggest. “Isn’t that what love is all about after all?”
Being a fan of the traditional beef burger, I cannot recall having eaten a chicken burger before.
Mr KJI Chicken Burger apparently stands for Kim Jong Il but bears no relation to the infamous former North Korean dictator.
Instead, it is named after a Korean chef who created this crispy deep fried chicken burger that comes with a side of chips and aioli.
Go juchang, peanut sauce and kimchi slaw give this crispy fried chicken its Korean flavour.
As I take each bite off my burger, I am eyeing Mysaucepan‘s dish which has created so much fuss around town.
Creativity in an eggs blini (cover image above) is taken up a few notches in Devon Cafe.
A soft buckwheat flour pancake is a cushion for a pretty clump of cured king salmon, two poached eggs, broccolini sprigs, micro herbs, salmon roe and a rich oozing Mikado sauce.
This eggs blini is definitely a Jennifer Lawrence because it is so rich and pretty.
Even if Lawrence can’t get you up for breakfast, I think this eggs blini will.
Soft and pillowy, the buckwheat blini soaks up oozy egg yolk and savoury king salmon with bursts of salty salmon roe in the mouth.
So there you have it dear readers. It’s good news for diners because this is quality casual food minus the pretence of fine dining prices.
Chefs of former fine dining restaurants are now weaving their inspiration and culinary magic in casual cafes that offer food with a decadent twist. It’s food reminiscent of their recent past but certainly a trend for Sydney’s cafe scene into the future.
So dear readers which is your favourite cafe among so many of them in Surry Hills and why?
76 Devonshire road
Surry Hills, New South Wales
Tel: +61 2 9211 8777
Opening hours: Monday to Friday 6.30am to 4.30pm, Saturday & Sunday 8am to 3.30pm. Dinner Thursday to Saturday 6pm to 10pm